Israel Romero / Tuesday, July 15, 2025 / Categories: Blog Spanish picaresque, a common national trait The book “El Lazarillo de Torres,” whose presumed author is “Anonymous,” is the work that best represents the picaresque genre. The Spanish picaresque is a literary genre that was born in Spain in the 16th century and whose protagonist is a pícaro: a humble, clever and often deceitful character who lives on the margins of society and contrives to survive in an unjust world. We’re talking about almost 500 years ago… and Spain is still the same. [caption id="attachment_45686" align="aligncenter" width="1001"] Spanish picaresque, a common national trait[/caption] Picaresque behavior in the Spanish gourmet world — in the sense of manipulating labels, creating false exclusivities, or deceiving about the origin of products — has become a form of commercial cunning that takes advantage of consumer trust. As in picaresque novels, sellers of these products use deception and appearances to obtain a profit, sometimes without concern for the product’s authenticity. It is a phenomenon that not only affects consumers but also undermines the credibility of an entire industry that should be based on quality and honesty. Has this ever happened to you — falling for this kind of deception? How do you usually identify whether a product is truly of quality or just a pretty label? Picaresque Behavior in Gourmet Products: The Deception Behind the Labels 1. 50% Iberian Ham marketed as "premium" One of the most common cases of picaresque behavior in the gourmet world involves Iberian ham products. Jamón ibérico de cebo (50% Iberian breed) is often marketed as if it were of top quality, when in reality it is far from comparable to 100% acorn-fed ibérico ham or pure Iberian breed (pata negra). Marketing trick: By putting “ibérico” on the label, consumers often think they are buying a luxury product, but 50% ibérico hams are cheaper and less flavorful. Picaresque tactic: Selling it as a “high-end” product simply by giving it a label that sounds good, without clarifying that its quality is inferior to 100% acorn-fed ibérico. These strategies take advantage of consumers’ lack of knowledge about the real differences between the various types of ham. 2. Olive Oil vs. Extra Virgin Olive Oil Another big example of picaresque behavior occurs in the olive oil market. Extra virgin olive oil is considered the highest quality, but lower-quality oils are often sold with misleading labels claiming “extra virgin.” Marketing trick: Many cheap olive oils are sold with labels like “virgin olive oil,” even though their quality does not meet the standards that define extra virgin olive oil (such as acidity or flavor). Picaresque tactic: By putting “extra virgin” on the label, the impression is given that the oil is high quality, when in reality it may be a more refined product with less flavor and fewer nutrients. The consumer pays a premium price without receiving the promised product. [caption id="attachment_45687" align="aligncenter" width="1080"] Spanish picaresque, a common national trait[/caption] 3. Canned Seafood: "Made in Galicia" Canned seafood, especially when advertised as “authentic from the Rías Gallegas”, can be another clear example of picaresque behavior if it is not sold with complete transparency. Marketing trick: Many producers label products as “authentic preserves from the Rías Gallegas” that, although they may be packaged in Galicia, do not necessarily contain seafood from the region or may not follow traditional preservation methods. The label itself appeals to nostalgia and the authenticity of Galician cuisine, but it does not always reflect reality. Picaresque tactic: The consumer assumes they are buying an artisanal or high-quality product simply because of the name or claimed origin, when the production process and the origin of the seafood may not be as authentic as presented. 4. Manchego Cheese that’s "not Manchego" Queso manchego is one of the most mislabelled and abused products. True Manchego cheese can only be produced under the Denomination of Origin La Mancha, but there are many imitations that do not meet the standards and are still sold with the “manchego” label without scruple. Marketing trick: Selling a semi-cured or cured cheese as “Manchego” when it does not actually have the denomination of origin, or using the label to give the impression of an artisanal product. Picaresque tactic: This plays on the consumer’s ignorance about denominations of origin, selling a lower-quality product under a name that already evokes prestige and tradition. [caption id="attachment_45688" align="aligncenter" width="1080"] Spanish picaresque, a common national trait[/caption] What can be done in the face of this picaresque behavior? To avoid falling for this “gourmet picaresque,” it is essential to: Learn about labels: Make sure the product has the designation of origin or the certifications that guarantee its authenticity and quality. Demand transparency: Producers and retailers should be clearer about the origin and manufacturing process of their products. Labels should be precise, leaving no room for confusing interpretations. Know the quality seals: In Spain there are quality seals such as DO (Denomination of Origin) or DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) that certify a product’s authenticity and quality. Develop critical consumption: Consumers should cultivate a more critical and conscious attitude when buying gourmet products and be wary of labels that sound too good to be true. Made in Spain Gourmet was born precisely so that only the best of Spain would be considered a Spanish Premium Gourmet product. We still have a lot to do, but we must all fight together against what is not gourmet. The art of selling a Spanish gourmet product at the price it deserves is not easy, especially because you must know how to do it, want to do it, and have customers willing to buy it. Many factors leave us very alone in the face of danger, but we see it as a real opportunity to triumph with the best that Spain can offer. El Lazarillo de Tormes wasn’t anonymous so much as there are so many Spaniards who see themselves reflected — manipulating labels, creating false exclusivities, or deceiving about the origin of prices — that the author should read: Made in Spain! AUTHOR: Israel Romero, CEO of Made in Spain Gourmet. Free shipping to bring the best of Spain to your door across Europe. Canned oysters: the quiet luxury that fits in a can. 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